Victor – Gav's Cycling Adventures

Driggs to Yellowstone, via Grand Teton National Park

Jun 28, 2022gavscyclingadventures

The Long Way Round (Part Two) – Monday 20th to Wednesday 22nd June.

Monday 20th June – Driggs to Jackson (Stage 40).

Rain was forecast from 10am in both Driggs & Jackson, so we took the decision to get up a bit earlier & be ready to leave by 9am, so at least we would start riding in the dry. There was another long distance cyclist from the UK staying in our motel & we set off almost together, however, he was soon a long way up the road!

Leaving Driggs, we picked up a cycle track almost immediately that we’d be able to use for the first 9 miles until we reached Victor. We could see rain showers falling to either side of us, but somehow we remained dry – even one of the horses looked on in surprise! You may be able to see in the 2nd photo that Sean had taken most of his kit out of his rear left pannier, we were hoping that the reduced weight would increase the chance of the pannier surviving until Jackson.

When we reached Victor, two things happened; firstly, the cycle track ended so we were back on Highway 33. Secondly, the road started to gradually head uphill, as we joined the very early & easy slopes of the Teton Pass. As we passed Trail Creek Pond we spotted an eagle who had a fish dangling from its talons as it flew by – sadly it all happened too quickly to get a photo, but it was a great moment & the first time I’d ever seen this happen in real life!

We followed the Trail Creek as it climbed the valley & after a couple of miles we reached the State Line crossing from Idaho into Wyoming (the Highway changed from ID 33 to WY 22). This also marked the point at which the gradient increased from about 2% to 4 – 5%, still very manageable, it just made for slower going.

Because the summit of Teton Pass was over 8,000 feet above sea level, I’d researched the climb. This isn’t always a happy place to be, as I knew that from the next corner to the top (about 4 miles in total), the gradient wouldn’t dip below 9% & would max out at 13% – in the first photo you may be able to make out a thin line just to the left & above the treeline, this is the road. The second photo is taken from that spot looking back down the valley into Idaho.

In the video below I tried to downplay the steepness of the climb for my own confidence – as you’ll see, I was struggling to keep pedalling, breathing & talking at the same time!

As we climbed higher, we saw two more cyclists daft enough to be climbing the brutal Teton Pass & as we passed them very slowly, we gave them encouragement to keep at it & focus on the vast vistas around a few more corners. As we continued on our way, we could see the first indications that blue skies were coming our way! We’d avoided the rain all morning & couldn’t believe our luck – perhaps the price was having to tackle the steep slopes!!

We finally made it to the summit at 8,432 feet (2,570 metres) above sea level & after taking a few moments to gather ourselves, we took a photo & then admired the spectacular views into the Jackson Hole valley from the lookout point.

I took a video of the first 30 seconds or so of the descent, but I picked up speed so quickly I had to put the camera away – LOOK AWAY NOW MUM!!! I hit 53mph in next to no time & decided that was fast enough for me. I’ve not been that fast on my carbon bike!!! I won’t lie, it was exhilarating, but I knew not to push my luck.

There are a couple of great turnout spots (layby to the Brits). At the first one I could see back to the lookout point a couple of miles away, while the second & third viewing spots gave huge views of the valley as it spread out below.

We regrouped at Wilson & agreed that we should continue on to Jackson, so Sean could try & get his pannier fixed. It was a short 5 mile ride along the valley floor – I’d done some research the night before, so knew that there was a bicycle shop next to our hotel that may be able to help. Within 15 minutes The Hub Bicycles had been able to repair Sean’s pannier – they were absolute legends & wouldn’t even accept any money for doing the work! On an adventure like our we’re totally reliant on the kindness & generosity of others to keep us on the road – The Hub Bicycles helped us out big time. Thanks guys! I’ve dropped them an email, so I’m hoping they may see how much it meant to us.

While we were waiting to check in to our motel, we met Owen & Cat, a couple of Brits who were also doing a long distance adventure. They’d started in Eugene & were following the Trans America route towards Virginia (via Colorado, Kansas, Missouri & Kentucky). We shared a really enjoyable 1/2 hour trading stories of our adventures so far.

We also went for a quick stroll around the historic part of town. Jackson is famous for its iconic Elk Antler Arches at the four corners of the park. The first arch was erected by the Rotary Club in 1953. Additional arches were added to the other 3 corners of the park between 1966 & 1969.

Elk Antlers have a life span & they begin to decompose after 30 to 40 years, so the oldest arch was rebuilt in 2007, followed by the other 3 arches in 2009, 2011 & 2013. Each arch is in the region of 10,000 to 12,000 pounds in weight (a single antler weighs about 5 to 10 pounds ) & the antlers are are individually weaved into a steel frame.

Final fact – the local boy scouts go out in the Spring when the arches are due to be replaced & pick up the antlers that Bull Elk have shed following the winter.

Stage Stats – 33 miles, 2,431 feet of climbing. One big hors categorie climb taking us over 8,400 feet above sea level.

Tuesday 21st June – Jackson to Lizard Creek Campground, Teton National Park (Stage 41).

We were on the road for 9.45am & retraced the 5 miles back to Wilson, using the car-free bridge to cross the Snake river & ride through Rendezvous Park (spot the Giant in the 3rd photo!).

For the next 10 miles we had our own cycle path which ran close to the road, but made for very relaxing & enjoyable riding. We saw a couple of runners & 3 cyclists, so we could take in the mountain views all around us. Before we knew it, we’d passed Teton Village & arrived at the entrance to Grand Teton National Park – thank you to the Ranger on the gate who humoured me when I asked for a selfie!

This isn’t a very popular entrance for cars, as the road quickly turns to rough gravel. The quieter roads increase the possibility of seeing wildlife & within 1/2 mile we’d spotted an eagle surveying the world from its eyrie. Tackling the 4 mile off-road section, it felt like we had the park to ourselves as we cycled through the forest. I’m writing this on 28th June & it’s a year ago to the day that I first went off-road on my touring bike – we were on Day One of a 5 day cycling trip to Wales & we did a mile or two of gravel on the Monmouth & Brecon canal towpath – how my adventures have grown!!!

The quiet backroad took us past babbling brooks & creeks which led into or out of the many small lakes & ponds. Then as we turned a corner the forest was replaced by plains & prairie as far as the eye could see. This signalled that we were nearing the end of our remote riding on Moose Wilson Road, but there was plenty more stunning scenery ahead of us.

We joined Teton Park Road at Moose, stopping to see the Visitor Centre along the way – I have a few friends (Jo & Tazzer – this is for you both!!) who will appreciate this next set of photos as they’re into Moose. I’ve added my favourite mousse photo!!!

Grand Teton National Park has gone to great lengths to be cyclist & pedestrian friendly. From Moose to Jenny Lake (about 10 miles) we were once more on a separate cycle path. Over billions of years, natural forces including earthquakes, glaciers & erosion have shaped the Teton mountains. The gneiss that makes up much of the range was formed 2.7 billion years ago when the sea floor sediments & volcanic debris were buried up to 18 miles deep as two tectonic plates collided – similar to what is happening to the Himalayas today.

The Tetons are young in geological terms, the uplifting which created them only commenced 10 million years ago. The range continues to uplift one earthquake at a time along the 40 mile Teton fault, a north-south crack in the earth’s crust. As the region is stretched in an east-west direction, this causes stress which is released in the form of an earthquake, lifting the mountain block skywards, while dropping the valley floor.

On average, the fault moves 10 feet with each earthquake – the mountain block rises 2 to 4 feet up, as the valley floor drops 4 to 6 feet. Over 10 million years it’s estimated that the total offset is about 25,000 feet – the flathead sandstone on Mount Moran (to the west of the fault) is at 6,000 feet above the valley, while the same layer is buried 20,000 feet below the valley floor on the east side of the fault. Enough with the geology lesson, here’s some more jaw-dropping scenery!

The Grand Teton National Park also has a number of alpine lakes, some natural & others man-made to manage water levels & to create hydro-electric power. When combined with the majestic backdrop of the mountains, the views are out of this world. Jenny Lake is the centre piece of the park, with views of Teewinot Mountain, Mount St John & Cascade Canyon (directly between Tweddle Dumb & Tweedle Dumber!) – you may be able to make out a rowing boat behind us too.

Further up the valley is Jackson Lake – it’s a 400 foot deep natural lake, that was modified in 1916 by the Bureau of Reclamation when they added a 39 foot dam to the lake & rebuilt it in 1989. The lake is a remnant of glacial gouging from the Teton mountain range to the west & the Yellowstone basin to the north. It extends 15 miles up & 7 miles across the valley & is one of the largest high altitude lakes in the USA.

Continuing up the valley, it became more obvious that the water level in Jackson Lake is currently quite low, as more of the shoreline beach became visible. We stopped briefly at Colter Bay Village (a grand name for a gas station, if ever I heard one!) where we stocked up on sandwiches, crisps & fruit for our gourmet dinner later.

Lizard Creek Campground, where we’d be camping for the night was a mere 8 miles up the road. When we arrived, our friendly campground hostesses Marni & Mandy welcomed us & made sure we found our pitch for the evening.

We set up camp, then ate our luxury dinner of ham & cheese sandwiches with either salt & vinegar or plain crisps. A little after 9pm we took a 2 minute stroll to the shoreline of Jackson Lake, where we watched the sun go down – huge thanks to Sean for sharing his sunset photo with me. The perfect end to the perfect day. Grand Teton National Park is a breathtakingly beautiful place & I’d encourage you to make time to visit if ever you’re in the region to see Yellowstone – you won’t be disappointed.

Stage Stats – 64 miles, 2,005 feet of climbing. Sunshine & blue skies all day as we explored a lesser known gem of a National Park.

Wednesday 22nd June – Lizard Creek Campground, Teton National Park to Grant Village, Yellowstone National Park (Stage 42).

It was bitterly cold overnight (below freezing) – I bought a beanie on 19th May in Sandpoint for just such an occasion & slept in it last night, along with long legged thermal bibs & a long sleeved jersey. We were on the road by about 10am & continued on a constantly rising road for 6 miles through a section of burned forest, before exiting Grand Teton National Park on the John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway as we headed towards Yellowstone.

John D Rockefeller was the only son of the founder of Standard Oil (now Exxon or Esso depending on which side of the Pond you’re from). He was a philanthropist & financier who donated $500 million to a wide range of causes, including Grand Teton, Acadia & the Great Smokie Mountain National Parks. Congress dedicated a parcel of 24,000 acres of land to recognise his contributions.

He was also involved in the Rockefeller Center (US Spelling), making him one of the largest real estate holders in New York City at one point. I’d encourage you to do your own research to better understand how he amassed his wealth so he could become a philanthropist. It’s not a simple or straightforward story so I’ll leave you to draw your own conclusion.

I’ll remember the stretch of road between Grand Teton & Yellowstone National Parks for two unrelated reasons.

Firstly, it’s where I experienced my first p*nct*re of the adventure – it took between 15 & 20 minutes to unload the bike, check the tyre, fit a new innertube & be on our way again. I’ll try & remember to take a photo next time!

Secondly, we cycled down the hard shoulder, passing a 4 mile tailback of cars queueing to get in Yellowstone’s South Entrance. As an aside, when we stayed at West Yellowstone, we were less than 1/2 mile from the West Entrance Gate – we took a 227 mile detour to get into Yellowstone via the South Gate. But look at the unexpected adventures the last week has brought us!

A friendly Ranger took a photo of us both by the Yellowstone sign, before we set off up the Snake River valley.

Yellowstone opened today for the first time in over a week – while this increased queues for cars trying to get into the park, the upside was no traffic was leaving the National Park, so traffic could overtake us safely whenever they wanted to. The climb up the Snake River valley was relentless – never steep, but also never ending as we threaded our way through the forest!

As we headed towards the rim of the canyon, views to the other side of the valley opened up, with occasional sightings of the river below.

Then all of a sudden the Snake River revealed itself as it cascaded down the valley at Moose Falls & Lewis Canyon Falls – there was white water all the way, suggesting that the water was fast running & the river lost height quickly.

Although the climbing hadn’t quite finished for the day. we were now on much kinder gradients – instead of fast running rivers, we were surrounded by lakes that fed into the Lewis River. As we passed Lewis Lake itself, we knew the climbing was at end end & we had a reward waiting for us……

We were on the Continental Divide once more! After a quick selfie, we were on our way again for the gentle descent into Grant Village, where we’d managed to secure a non-air conditioned, no tv, flaky wifi room for the bargain price of $366 (including tax) between us. Luckily sandwiches were slightly cheaper than that at $8 each, but dinner in our room still cost $35 each, including a tinny to celebrate making it to Yellowstone in the first place!

Tomorrow our Yellowstone adventure continues!

Stage Stats – 31 miles, 2,251 feet of climbing. Sunshine & blue skies all day again as we said goodbye to Grand Teton National Park & hello to Yellowstone National Park.

Lincoln to Darby

Jun 10, 2022gavscyclingadventures

No Cathedral in Lincoln, Nor donkeys in Darby – Friday 3rd to Sunday 5th June

Friday 3rd June – Lincoln, Rest Day

We managed to get all the laundry done last night at a small laundromat on Huckleberry Trailer Court – a very kind chap helped me out with change when I foolishly put our kit (& money) in a dryer that was broken! That meant today was a chance to relax & explore the small town of Lincoln.

Sean had seen an article about Blackfoot Pathways: Sculpture In The Wild that looked worth exploring & was within walking distance of our motel. As we made our way across town, several of the shops had displays of wooden animals outside – I was particularly taken with the idea of joining a bear named Daryl for a beer. Leaving town we passed a very creative “Welcome to Lincoln” sign – this is a theme in Montana, as a few other towns have made an effort to welcome visitors.

From the road, the Gateway to the Sculpture In The Wild is easy to miss – it’s just two pine logs wrapped in wicker. I later found out the design is based on the DNA double helix.

The Sculpture in the Wild project began in 2014 as an International Sculpture event when 5 artists worked with the community of Lincoln to create 6 site-specific sculptures that form the nucleus of the park. The purpose was to blend sculpture, landscape, nature & human experience using natural & industrial materials. It’s been hugely successful as there are now 18 permanent sculptures from internationally acclaimed artists, as well as a number of sculptures that are displayed for 12 months. I don’t intend to explain the message behind any of the pieces, simply enjoy them as pieces of art – you can find out more here (www.sculptureinthewild.com).

First up was the Montana Drawing Line, followed by a tree stump that had been carved into an almost angelic form & a classic “barber’s chair” – this happens when a tree is being cut down & the trunk splits along the vertical, rather than the horizontal.

As we continued we passed the Gateway of Change (made from two trunks that share the same roots), Tree Circus (inside there were 10 chambers, 5 open to the elements & 5 closed), Clearing (the outside walls are made from trees that were burned in a natural forest fire, while the inside features newly harvested cedars) & Picture Frame (the branches within the sculpture were all from the Sculpture in the Wild site).

Next up was Stringer (the interlacing of the trunks reminded me of a wigwam as the human model magically grew before my eyes!) & Ponderosa Whirlpool (again the darker wood in the middle of the whirlpool was recycled from a natural forest fire).

A Place Is A Place Is A Place was a clever 3 dimensional house that took on different shapes as we walked around it.

We’re now into my favourite three permanent sculptures – first up, The Bridge. It was just missing Indiana Jones running away with his love interest as he was chased by the baddies!

House of Sky eluded us for quite a while until we saw it from the right angle with the sun shining on it – we then wondered how we missed it!

Finally, my favourite permanent exhibit by a long way – Montana Memory. Teepee Burners were used in the timber industry & were once a common sight. This re-imagining of the Delany Sawmill TeePee Burner ensures that the history & heritage continues to be shared with future generations.

It took us a couple of hours to walk around the site & we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves – it was tiring work & luckily one of the temporary sculptures encouraged visitors to interact with it. As we were leaving, we saw what looked like large gourds, but on closer inspection were actually birdhouses!

We spent the remainder of our rest day doing exactly that – resting! I caught up on my journal, wrote a blog & then spent some time reading. We’re learning that rest days are essential in making sure we stay fit & healthy, as is beer!! A final treat for you – our motel has just started renting out teepees for guests. Glamping, but better!!

Saturday 4th June – Lincoln to Missoula (Stage 28)

Lincoln is one of a number of places where our motel stay doesn’t include breakfast. As on those previous occasions we bought some Frosties, yoghurt & milk from a grocery store the night before & made our own breakfast. We both agreed, “They’re Grrrrrrrrreat!!” Today’s stage is 82 miles, so we were on the road by 8am with low-lying cloud ahead of us. We soon picked up the path of the Blackfoot river as it meandered across the valley floor. For the first 5 miles or so we didn’t see or hear any wildlife which is unusual – we were beginning to wonder if maybe the road was too busy for our furry & feathered friends.

All of a sudden our barren spell disappeared as first a herd of 5 deer burst from the undergrowth & bounded into the forest – all too quick to photograph. Within a couple of hundred yards we spotted an eagle feeding on a dead deer that was lying at the roadside. It took off & perched in a tree waiting for us to move on. It appeared quite comfortable on its branch, so I took a couple of photos before leaving the eagle to enjoy breakfast in peace. A little while later we also spotted an eagle eyrie in a tree overlooking the river (top left of the 3rd photo below).

We continued to follow the Blackfoot for a while longer although the cloud continued to cling to the lower mountain slopes. The road separated from the course of the river for a while as we climbed up & over a spur, then enjoyed a descent down the other side. We also left the National Forest behind for the time being. The big mountains continued to show their lower slopes, although the upper slopes remained shrouded in mist.

Continuing across the plain, we soon reached the town of Clearwater, where we posed beside an enormous fibreglass cow!! The gas station was the other attraction for us, as it gave us a rare opportunity to enjoy a coffee stop (plus a tasty slice of banana cake).

Soon after leaving Clearwater it started raining, but never too hard. Continuing along the 200, the plain soon ended & we entered the Helena National Forest for the first time on our adventure – this also coincided with a new competition between the locals – show off the largest gateposts. Here are a couple of contenders for the award.

Helena Forest also marked the start of our only proper climb of the day, as we passed through an Experimental Forest which is being managed by the Bureau of Land Management, Montana State Government & Montana University. Just as Sean summited the climb, a jogger passed in the opposite direction. For me, the joy of any climb is the descent that usually follows, you may be able to tell from my smug grin!

As we continued downhill, we crossed a small clearing, before picking up the Blackfoot river again. This far downstream it had grown significantly in size & was looking swollen from the large amounts of meltwater from the snowy mountain peaks above. The cloud didn’t lift all day, so even this far down the valley the lower slopes were hidden from view at times – as a result, we almost missed the rickety rope-bridge that crossed the river.

The town of Bonner marked our return to civilisation. Our American Cycling Association map once again guided us along relatively traffic free roads as we reached the outskirts of Missoula – the largest town we’d seen since our adventure began. The final couple of miles were through the Montana Rail Link Park & on the Bitterroot Trail (more on this tomorrow!).

As it’s a Saturday night, we decided to celebrate another glorious day of cycling with a beer – it’s great to chat through our individual highlights of the day, as we both normally remember different elements. Today was an exception, seeing an eagle eating breakfast at the roadside was the highlight for both of us.

Stage Stats – 82 miles, 1,512 feet of climbing. A day descending the Blackfoot valley. Low-lying cloud all day with rain showers.

Sunday 5th June – Missoula to Darby (Stage 29)

Missoula to Darby looked like one of our easier days in the saddle as we sat in the hotel getting ready for breakfast. 60 miles & 1,200 feet of gradual climbing – this would be a nice gentle recovery ride we thought, how wrong we were! The writing was on the wall when we walked into the breakfast area & there was no toast or cereal. In fact there was just yoghurt & a waffle making kit. We made the immediate decision to eat a couple of yoghurts & then look for somewhere to eat breakfast in Lolo, a short distance into today’s ride.

We set off at about 9.30 & immediately joined the Bitterroot Trail, a cycling specific path that we would be riding for the first 50 miles – while we were always close to the main road, it always felt that we were riding in remote countryside. The early part of the route followed the railroad, while we followed the Bitterroot river all day – this far downstream it was at maximum capacity!

After about 10 miles we reached Lolo, an eclectic little town that retained much of its heritage, while also finding ways to stand-out from the regular, like a painted bison! We stopped at KT’s Hayloft for a breakfast of eggs, hash browns & toast, along with huge cups of freshly brewed coffee. The Hayloft was like taking a step back in time – old rifle & fishing rod collections, as well as wall mounted animal heads. As we sat inside eating, the heavens opened outside, we’d just managed to beat a passing storm.

The worst of the rain had passed by the time we hit the cycle path again, although the big mountains remained veiled in mist, just showing themselves fleetingly. We meandered in & out of wetland areas, rich in bull-rushes, where warblers could be heard singing their happy tunes along with frogs sending us on our way with their croaks & ribbits! As we returned to the river, it had burst its banks where a smaller creek joined it.

I’m always on the lookout for something that will either act as a point of interest or distraction for my regular posts & today we had a feast to choose from. In addition to the painted bison above, there was also a cock (insert own joke here!) & a moose. We’re also being stalked around the state of Montana by Lucky Lil (congratulations on making the blog!) – she has a whole empire of casinos & we seem to see a sign for them every day!! Jimbo you have more money than you thought, so go ahead & buy that new dream bike!!!

The wildlife was more tricky to photograph than normal, as the eagles were generally riding the thermals & were out of range. However, we saw a crane swoop in front of us & land in a tree some 100 yards away. We saw more deer, they always look so cute & inquisitive. I’m sure they’re as interested in the two humans on strange wheels as we are in them! Throughout the day we passed field after field of horses grazing & generally looking as if they didn’t have a care in the world.

As we reached Stevensville we saw a small brown sign to Fort Owen State Park – it was a 1 mile detour, so we decided to go & have a look. Experience has taught us that brown signs mean interesting history is nearby. This was no exception, as the State Park is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It was home to Montana’s first catholic church founded in 1841 & also the state’s first permanent white settlement.

In addition, it also housed the first sawmill, first grist mill, first agricultural development & the first school for settlers. In short, it was of huge significance & importance in the mid-1800’s. Major John Owen arrived in the Bitterroot valley in 1850 & established the fort, as well as trading with the Indians. Another great little side adventure for us too.

A couple of points to mention about today’s “recovery” ride – firstly, we rode into a significant headwind all day & secondly, we rode up a constant gradient, which when combined on a 5 hour plus ride becomes hard work! The cycle path continued to offer stunning scenery as we continued towards the small town of Victor, where we saw another example of the old buildings being protected.

Slowly, but surely, the mountains started to reveal themselves as we continued along the cycle path. We also saw small patches of flowers & vegetation which made for pretty foregrounds & backdrops in a couple of photos. The weather was still a bit on the chilly side at this point, to the point that Sean was using his rain jacket to keep warm.

Late season snowmelt from the mountains had resulted in the many creeks filling the main Bitterroot river to capacity & it appeared a matter of time before it burst its banks. In the second photo you may make out a small white cross just behind & to the left of Sean (the road is just to Sean’s right). In Montana these signify that there has been a fatal road traffic accident & the number of crosses at the site indicate the number of people who died. We have seen several hundred crosses during our time in Montana to date & the worst accident killed 5 people. These markers ensure we remain vigilant when cycling on the roads.

We arrived at Hamilton after about 50 miles & we took to the road for the first time – we were now so far up the valley that the traffic was relatively quiet. The weather had also improved & blue sky was now dominating the clouds (well, almost!!). However, the wind was still blowing on our noses!! We only rode the roads for the final 10 miles of today’s adventure, all the rest of it was on the excellent Bitterroot Trail.

As we cycled into Darby, we could see the parking lot of the local rodeo was full of SUVs & RVs – it was a rodeo weekend & most of the town folk were taking it in. We had other plans, namely putting up our tents in case the weather changed again, as rain was scheduled for the evening. I’ll give an update on how our camping experience goes tonight when I do my next update! It’s our first camping since Rexford.