Le Petit Tour de France (Normandy, Brittany & Pays de la Loire) – Day 6

Etape 6 –Val Couesnon to Rennes (Wednesday 25th June)

This morning’s breakfast set a new benchmark in quality – all locally produced, we tucked into fresh watermelon, yoghurt & granola, scrambled egg on toast, a croissant and crusty bread & apricot jam, all washed down with fresh grapefruit juice & coffee. It was a feast fit for royalty & we devoured the lot!

We set off under grey skies, with high humidity in the air & the possibility of thunderstorms later in the afternoon. By mile 15, we’d completed 75% of the day’s climbing, as we followed small lanes that took us between fields of wheat & maize. Finally, we had 2 long distance encounters with birds of prey, as they patrolled the wheat fields for their vole breakfast. The surrounding countryside & villages don’t look much different to how they were 500 years ago – the 1 exception was at Marcille-Rhoul, where we saw a historic farmhouse surrounded by wind turbines in the far distance.

Etang du Bulet marked the end of the early climbing & we spotted a couple of swans with their cygnets in tow on the far side of the lake. At Mentreuil-sur-Ille we joined a gravel path which followed the Canal d’Ille et Rance, as it gradually descended towards Rennes.

We had the path to ourselves, except for the occasional dog walkers, cyclists & joggers. There were locks every couple of miles, so the canal could follow the contours of the land downhill.

The expected thunderstorms never arrived, but it remained humid, so we were grateful of the shade offered by the trees on the banks of the canal. An unexpected bonus was spotting L’Ecluse Tropicale, where we enjoyed a Breizh cola & café-au-lait.

Just before our adventure on the canal ended, we passed a beautifully restored lockkeeper’s cottage. It was the perfect end to an hour of riding in paradise.

The final 15 miles were nothing to write home about, other than to say we had to circumnavigate Rennes to reach our hotel for the evening & this required us to ride busy roads, before finally returning to quiet lanes for the final 15 minutes.

After the opulence of last night, we’re in a B&B Hotels motel this evening – it was automated check-in, door codes to get into the building & your room & the simplest of hotel rooms.

Val Couesnon to Rennes was 43 miles in length with 1,700 feet of climbing. I’ve taken the decision to have a day off the bike tomorrow, as my forearm has been getting more painful each day I’ve ridden. This is my 6th consecutive day of riding & we’ve covered 260 miles in that time. Tomorrow would require me to ride 76 miles from Rennes to Saint Nazaire, which is too much for me now. I need to investigate the bus & train timetables, as we have already paid for 2 night’s accommodation in Saint Nazaire!

Le Petit Tour de France (Normandy, Brittany & Pays de la Loire) – Day 5

Etape 5 – Granville to Val Couesnon (Tuesday 24th June)

After a breakfast of apple juice, coffee, cereal, yoghurt, pain au chocolat & a pastry I was ready for the day ahead. We had blue skies overhead & the thermometer was already saying 20C as we set off just after 9.30am. The first 20 minutes or so were about getting across Granville & joining the coastal road towards Saint-Pair-sur-Mer.

Within 10 miles, we’d hit almost half of today’s climbing, as we crested cliffs, before plummeting back to sea level, with lovely views along the beaches. There were plenty of people walking on the promenade & even a couple of horses & traps galloping on the wet sand.

As we descended into Saint-Jean-le-Thomas we left the climbing behind for a while as we descended a small lane that took us past an ancient cannon & gave us our first glimpse of the Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel about 10 miles in the distance. I’ve been looking forward to seeing the island that’s connected to the mainland by a causeway ever since we planned the trip – my first view didn’t disappoint!

After about 90 minutes in the saddle, we reached the small commune of Genets & spotted a patisserie, plus a picnic spot in a nearby field, so I stopped for a pear tart & orange drink, while Sean had an apple tart & peach drink as we relaxed with lovely views across the bay.

We stayed on quiet lanes as we headed inland through Vains, La Croix Verte & Argennes, occasionally picking up gravel trails that joined the small lanes together. At Pontaubalt, we crossed the Selune estuary & headed ever closer to Mont-Saint-Michel, with the Abbaye offering tantalising glimpses of what lay ahead.

Other than a group of 4 Scottish cyclists who were heading for St Malo we hardly saw a sole (1 of their partners was acting as a soigneur & driving a car with all their luggage) – they quickly rode off into the distance.

Finally, we arrived at La Caserne, the closest you can get to the Abbaye, without walking across to the Abbaye. We stopped for a café au lait & coke, while congratulating ourselves for making the slight detour to get closer to the Mont-Saint-Michel.

Leaving La Caserne, we joined a hard-packed gravel cycle track that followed the river Couesnon into Pontorson, before picking up a lane that was used exclusively by cyclists & farmers. About an hour after leaving La Caserne, we arrived in Val Couesnon & had 1 final, steep ascent to our Bed & Breakfast.

Granville to Val Couesnon was 49 miles in length with 1,500 feet of climbing. We’re staying in the Chambres d’Hotes 1900 & it looks like we made a great choice. A small swimming pool, jacuzzi & sauna are in the large garden & we enjoyed an 1st class al-fresco plat-du-jour dinner, made by the hostess!